Subtitle: The friendship bracelet men of Paris and the bagmen of Venice.
If you’re a tourist, the world wants to sell you things. Usually, the things you really want are the ones you have to find, not those that find you.
Example #1: Paris. Everywhere we went, there was somebody who wanted to sell us something. Whether it was a round of three card monty (yes, people are still falling for that in Paris), friendship bracelets (a scam we had heard about in real life! These guys were the pushiest, blocking your way and trying to put the bracelet on your hand to force you to buy it), or the deaf mute children (sign our petition because we can’t speak, except to ourselves and when we think nobody’s watching!), their living was based off of making tourists uncomfortable and shoving things in their faces. Best solution? Walk past them, mutter no (or, even better, niet like in Russian, as that seemed to scare them?), and worst case wave your hand like you’re killing the conversation. They typically get the message.

Example #2: The bagmen of Venice (and Italy, it turns out). These guys were fascinating, purveyors of knockoff designer handbags for the ladies, pigs that, when thrown against the ground, turned momentarily into a puddle of goo then resumed their previous shape and gumby like creatures that made funny faces for the kids, and Ray-Bam sunglasses for all ages. They sold these same things everywhere. Everywhere. All throughout Rome and Venice. But they weren’t selling them legally. We were walking past them (fortunately, if you don’t look interested, they ignore you) once and, as though the bat signal had just appeared in the sky, they snatched up all of their wares, threw them into bags and sheets, and took off like gazelles being hunted. If they sold purses, they carried them over their shoulders: over 20 bags on some people. They looked scared, some on their phones yelling in different languages, others hiding behind statues and then running up alleyways. But why?
Then they appeared: the customs police. Not just your local beat cops but the heavy hitters. And they meant business, if you trust the scared looks on the vendors faces. Someone had sent up the bat signal, and now they were fleeing. But their flight left me with two big questions: how did they smuggle so much merchandise off of an island? And where did the bags come from?
Answer to question one: Garbage bags.
Answer to question two: I would have to wait for Rome for this one (they sell the bags everywhere. Everywhere). Turns out they have local sponsors (read: large, chain smoking white guys in minivans packed to the brim with contraband) that sell them things cheap in return for a share of the profits. It’s like drugs, I would imagine.
Regardless, watching the counterfeit vendors do their thing was interesting and provided a sub current throughout the trip. Even though they have to pack up at a moments notice, it’s interesting that they can even operate in public, when you don’t see them at all in the US.